After spending some time in Split, we decided we wanted to check out some nearby islands, and have heard many good things about the island of Hvar. We booked an Air BnB for two nights, and our biggest regret is not staying longer. There is so much to do in Hvar! Upon arrival, one sees Tvrdava Fortica, a historical fortress dating back to 500BC, looming over the town. Since we had come to Hvar with one goal in mind (never ending beach days), we unfortunately did not make the trek to explore the fortess, but we had a great view of it from our apartment, thank goodness.
Since we are on a budget trying to travel for a year, we did have to avoid the restaurants because of the tourist prices, but there were many local markets for us to choose from. Our Air BnB came with a full kitchen, along with an amazing balcony overlooking the ocean and the town of Hvar, so we were very satisfied with our stay there. The host of our apartment even told us about a local beach that many tourists do not know about, and it was a ten minute walk from our place.
The beach was called Pokonji dol Beach, and to access it, you need to walk down a slightly steep dirt path on a hill. The entrance to this path can be found in a residential neighborhood, so it’s easy to miss, but can be found if you search the beach on any maps app. Another way to access it is along the road that runs along the perimeter of the island, and along this road, there are also dozens of other swimming areas you can access. Just keep an eye out for staircases as you walk along this road; most will lead you straight to a sea access point as pictured below.
Because we are budgeting for a year’s worth of travel, we barely dipped out toes into the activities that Hvar has to offer. You can rent boats, jet skis, kayaks, and paddle boards, and explore the the many beaches around the island. There are also several islands nearby, and many boat tours are offered, including tours of the world famous Blue Cave. Apparently, when lit by the morning sun, the Blue Cave appears to glow a luminescent blue color. We unfortunately did not get a chance to see the cave, since the best time to go is in the early morning, and to be honest with you, we have been indulging in sleeping in everyday. No regrets about that! After years of waking up around 6AM everyday, we are loving the freedom to sleep in.
Although we didn’t take any of the boat tours (they were a bit out of our price range), we heard many good things about them. However, for travelers on a budget, there is still an opportunity to explore the smaller surrounding islands! We managed to find boat taxis all along the main harbor, with rides ranging from 50 to 90 kunas round trip (about $8-14 USD), which is much cheaper than the boat tours we found that seemed to cost $60-100 per person. We took a boat taxi to the small island of Mlini, thanks to the suggestion from our Air BnB host, and found a mostly empty little beach that was heaven on Earth. I highly recommend a visit to Mlini Beach for anyone who makes it out to Hvar.
The water of Mlini Beach was a crystal clear turquoise dream. We swam for hours and enjoyed some drinks in a treehouse lounge area at the restaurant located at the main dock. I can’t remember the name of it for the life of me, but it’s the first restaurant you’ll run into upon arrival on the small island. I highly recommend grabbing a drink and food here and enjoying the breathtaking views.
Check out this short video we put together featuring all the GoPro footage we captured while on Hvar and Mlini Beach!